Every genuine pearl is unique – a never-to-be-repeated combination of a particular type of luster, shape, color and tiny imperfections. And this is doubly true when it comes to baroque pearls. These pearls which are characterized by their irregular shape, are exceptional in terms of their uniqueness, specifically due to their unique, asymmetrical shape.
The name of these pearls that aren’t round comes from the Portuguese word barocco, which means imperfect. The first time this term was used in relation to pearls was in a 17th century French dictionary. The term described a pearl that wasn’t round and therefore didn’t have a perfect shape. So, let's explore the world of baroque pearls together in more detail.
The origins of baroque pearls
Pearls are grown on farms, where a small bead is inserted into the shell of a mollusk that then provides the basic shape of the future pearl. The mollusk covers this bead with its nacre, thus creating the pearl. On freshwater farms, the shell of other freshwater oysters is quite often used as the bead. Pearls that have this mantle bead from another donor shell at its core instead of a non-shell bead are the ones that go on to develop irregular shapes. But even when a regular non-shell bead is inserted into an oyster, a number of factors can affect the growth of the pearl, such as organic matter, water temperature and salinity, the anatomy of the mollusk, as well as other external factors. These all affect the way that the different layers of nacre are deposited on the bead and cause the baroque shape of the pearl. Because of this, round freshwater pearls are much rarer than those with irregular shapes.
Baroque pearls can come from both freshwater and marine mollusks. However, marine pearls grow slower and there are fewer pearls that grow per oyster than freshwater ones. This makes freshwater baroque pearls more accessible. Rare marine baroque pearls tend to be colorful and most often come from Tahiti (dark Tahitian pearls) or Australia (yellow South Sea pearls). Akoya pearls usually don’t tend to come in baroque shapes because their nacre layer is not very thick.
Baroque pearl grading
Baroque pearls are assessed based on the same properties as round pearls: luster, size, color and surface quality. In this case however, the shape of the pearl has a slightly different significance. The most common rating used is AAA-AA-A, where AAA corresponds to the highest quality.
LUSTER: The quality and glow of the luster depends on the thickness and quality of the pearl. The thicker and more compact the pearl layers are, the more intense the pearl's ability to reflect light. The aragonite layers around the bead makes it appear as though the pearl is shining from the inside, which is a very desirable property in pearls. A good quality pearl has a high luster that resembles the reflection of light in a mirror. Lower grades of luster are referred to as a satin luster, followed by a silky luster, and the lowest quality freshwater pearls are graded as having a matte luster.
SIZE and SHAPE: Even with baroque pearls, the rule that the larger the pearl, the higher the price also applies. But as far as shape is concerned, it’s more complicated. In some baroque pearls, such as with a perfect teardrop pearl, symmetry is also valued. But for others, it is the asymmetrical, irregular, significantly misshaped and therefore completely unique shape, that makes them rare.
COLOR: The color range of pearls is very wide. It is mainly evenness and uniformity of color that are graded, but in some cases it’s the various "smudges" and other imperfections that are valued. The choice of color is therefore more a matter of personal preference.
SURFACE QUALITY: In general, a smooth surface free of grooves, inclusions and other impurities is valued the most in pearls but when it comes to baroque pearls, originality and uniqueness take priority over this. It is therefore the striations or other surface imperfections that can add to the attractiveness of a baroque pearl.
How to recognize a genuine baroque pearl
Various types of pearls and precious stones have their own counterfeits on the market and these imitations are most often made of glass or plastic. The main identifying feature of genuine baroque pearls is their unique, irregular, and completely organic shape. Some warning signs can therefore be, for instance, two completely identical earrings, an unnaturally smooth surface on the pearl or bumps and raises that look artificial (for instance they are suspiciously regular). A real pearl is a work of nature whereas an artificial one often looks too perfect.
Another important characteristic of genuine pearls is a very distinctive luster that comes as if from within the pearl, from its core. In contrast, imitation pearls only glisten on the surface and do not give off a vivid impression. For more tips, see our article on how to identify real pearls.
The various types of baroque pearls
The term "baroque pearl" covers all pearls with an irregular shape. But there are also various subtypes of baroque pearls:
- Coin pearls are round and flat coin-like pearls. They are most commonly used in earrings and are particularly popular because of their beautiful luster which is beautifully evident due to the flat nature of the pearl. The chance of finding two very similar pieces is slightly higher with this type of pearl.
- Baroque pearls (this is both the general term for all irregular pearls as well as a subtype) have an elongated spherical shape and their surface is uneven and full of dents. Their beauty stands out the most when they are strung into necklaces and bracelets.
- Twin pearls are less common pearls that are created when two pearls fuse together.
- Cross pearls are shaped like a cross. They are quite rare and highly valued especially in religious jewelry.
- Stick pearls are long and narrow, resembling a stick. They are also sometimes called BIWA pearls. They are attractive as a single stone in bracelets, but they can also be used in earrings - it all depends on how creative the jeweler is.
- Rice pearls are tiny pearls that resemble grains of rice. They are very lovely and have a rounded but not round shape.
- Egg pearls are also very small. They resemble eggs in terms of shape and are narrower on one side than on the other end.
- Heart pearls are romantic heart shaped pearls. They are flat like coin pearls but are not round and they shine beautifully.
- Teardrop (also known as pear or drop) pearls are a very sought after type of pearl. They are teardrop shaped and sometimes they also resemble pears. They are the most valuable types of baroque pearls. They stand out beautifully, especially in earrings.
- The poetic name of leaf pearls is given to thin flat pearls with an uneven surface. They are the finest and thinnest of baroque pearls.
- Keshi pearls are created when an oyster rejects the bead implanted in it and forms a pearl without it. The resulting pearls have a lumpy shape. These pearls are composed entirely of nacre and therefore have an extremely good quality, high level of luster. They are very rare and are often sold by carat weight.
- There are also semi-baroque pearls, which have a shape that’s something in between a round pearl and a fully baroque pearl. They are not round, but neither are they too irregular. They are most often oval or imperfectly round and the irregularities are often found only at one end of the pearl.
Some fun facts
Due to their abstract shapes, baroque pearls have often been used in jewelry with natural themes. Especially during the Renaissance and Baroque periods, they were very popular among goldsmiths, who were inspired by them and used them as the basis for their creations of figures. The 19th century pendant called The Canning Jewel is a wonderful example where the artist used a baroque pearl as the torso of a burly merman.
The most famous example of baroque pearls is the beautiful La Peregrina (a pilgrim woman). She was discovered in Panama in the 16th century. This magnificent pearl has been owned by Napoleon, among others, and later by the British royal family. La Peregrina also shone as a jewel on actress Elizabeth Taylor who received it from her husband.
Baroque pearls present a world of possibilities and practically beg to be made into novel jewelry. Their imperfections in the form of their uneven surface often mean that they shine more than round pearls. Their uneven curves can also help to give them a more beautiful play of colors, especially when it comes to Tahitian pearls. Another undeniable advantage is their cheaper price, which can be two to three times lower than that of round pearls.
Baroque pearls are a great way to express a distinctive, individual style - you just have to find the right jewelry. Baroque pearls are simply imperfectly perfect.
